Photo Credit. Our "fabuloso" trip to New York City - midtown Manhattan started at The Gershwin Hotel on East 27th Street between 5th and Madison. Just two stops from Grand Central Station, if you take the 6.Our flight landed 1 hr late in LaGuardia. Not surprising from the airport reknowned for its tardiness. I was determined to use the Subway to get to our hotel. We did finally arrive at our hotel around 1:15am, after realizing that the subway does NOT connect to LaGuardia, and you have to take a bus to the subway station. Matt was getting tired of lugging around our 52 pound suitcase up and down the Subway stairs. So, we vowed to take a cab back to the airport on Monday. LOL. On the upside it only cost us $2 each to get to the hotel as opposed to a potential $45 cab fare.
Our room was a "superior" room (according to the hotel), with queen-sized bed and private bathroom (yay!). Apart from the squeeky bed (it protested everytime you rolled over) and the non-view (we had a window that faced 3 brick walls and the garbage bins below) - it was okay. The hotel is over 100 years old, covered in art, and it had a nice quirky Warhol/Poet/Artsy feel to it. the little window-box air conditioner did it's job well and kept our room nice and cool. The shower never could make up its mind what temperature the water should be, and so my showers consisted of interchanging minutes of scalding hot water and icy cold water. I got a kick out of the cold water knob seeming to control the amount of scaldi-ness, and the hot water knob seeming to do nothing. Matt said it was just better to shower at 3pm in the afternoon when nobody else was using the water, but I couldn't wait that long. men have it so easy. We had a nice wardrobe for our clothes, and a dresser top to stick the suitcase. All was pretty much groovy. Some advice I'd give the hotel (if they cared to listen, and I bet they don't - long story) is: Get your liquor license and open up the damn bar in the lobby. The bar is physically there. USE IT! Also, you'd attract some brownie points if you had coffee makers IN THE ROOMS ? wouldn't that be a novel idea? every other hotel I have visited has this feature. or heck, serve coffee in the lobby at your "BAR!" - and don't run out. They do serve coffee and tea (bad coffee and tea) in the lobby but it's self serve and was gone before 9:30am. say what?
Although, they have an AWESOME hang-out area in the back of the lobby. A big red room with a grand piano and several very comfy couches. I adored this area!! If they ever opened the bar up, they would have a nice night-time hotspot.
- FRIDAY -
Around the corner on 5th Avenue and E 28th Street was our favorite deli of the trip - Cafe 28 - which is open 24 hours. We got a tuna sandwich from the deli at 2am. Delicious!
We went back again in the later morning for a bagel and some amazing coffee. They also have a full salad bar, chinese buffet, sushi (with chef), they sell all sorts of energy bars, wine, beer, chips (including UTZ - yes you Mad Men lovers -UTZ potato chips!), etc. It was a "Bit pricy" according to my standards, but it IS Manhattan right? I am just spoiled with my local Goldberg's deli in my 'hood.
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Matthew and I proceeded onto the 6 train northbound to visit The Metropolitan Museum of Art (aka The Met). Along the way, Matt took some snapshots of The Guggenheim and proudly proclaimed "It's my first Frank Lloyd Wright!" - I keep forgetting he hasn't been to all the places that I have been before. I can't wait to take him to Falling Water in PA or Taliesin Spring Green, WI. Anyhoo that is another set of trips someday. We didn't actually get to go IN the Guggenheim - they had a lot of construction going on, and our goal was to conquer The Met today after all. So, we strolled down the Central Park Sidewalk on 5th, until we entered The Met. In Matt's words "So much art from so many masters. We approached it as an overview pausing for some of our favorites but it really needs to be seen one section at a time. It was cool to see original Rembrandt's and Degas' and Goya's and Picasso's and on and on." We walked and walked and soaked in as much art as we could. For my first, we went to the 2nd floor of the Met. Last visit here I didn't make it to the 2nd floor. We also stopped in the Cafeteria for a small bite to eat. Can you believe they actually have Sushi? and Sake? and Beer? oh my. We had a quick plate of nigiri and a small california roll, and then off to see more art. Around 4pm, we were exhausted. Thankfully, I had the foresight to buy an umbrella (from the Met), and we bid the monstrous museum adieu and entered the downpour of rain.
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For some strange reason, we were hungry, so we ate $1 hot dogs from a vendor right outside The Met. They were the MOST delicious hot dogs I think I have ever had. We had 2 each, and this was the cheapest meal we would eat in NYC. Matt bought another umbrella from a passing vendor, and we took the Subway back to our stop. My jean hems were soaked, and our feet were very wet and dirty. However, it was okay.
We stopped a Kessler's Liquor Store for 2 bottles of Malbec (one for now, one for later- or for sharing). A Man working in the liquor shop, was quite helpful, and on his recommendation one of our Malbec bottles was a Luigi Bosca - the BEST Malbec I think I've ever had! We took our lovely wine back to the hotel room, and met up with Erika and Ben for a little cocktail, and changing of our wet clothes, before heading off for dinner.
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On a whim and a recommendation, went to Maui Tacos on 5th Avenue. I would not recommend this as a fine dining restaurant. The chips bordered on stale, the salsa was weak (I had to have the HOTTEST salsa to have a any zing of flavor), and the staff has never heard of "queso" - we explained it to him, and he brought us a little plastic ramekin of melted shredded cheese (which congealed in 5 seconds). che-che-KEW! The margaritas were okay, and the burritos/tacos were okay, but from a dining perspective - you are better off hitting Subway or Chipotle - in my humble opinion. On the upside the service was quick, and we were in and out in no time. You get what you pay for I guess?
-
After dinner, we wandered up 5th avenue to Rockefeller Center, so Matt could see where the ice skating rink is, etc. Then we parted with Erika & Ben as they had another group to meet with, so Matthew and I walked over to Grand Central Station - as Matt had never seen it before. We stopped for a glass of wine (Matt had a Peroni) at Cipriani Dolci, before heading back down to the hotel. We did stop at my bank to get cash. For some reason it wouldn't let me. I could definitely use my debit card to buy things, but getting CASH was impossible. I tried to call my bank, but the automated message said they were unable to provide account information. I discovered later that Hurricane Ike may have had something to do with this little mess. Anyhoo, we weren't necessarily starving for cash, so we went back to the hotel, and even passed a "Roche Bubois" - one of my favorite fantasy furniture stores. I say fantasy because I will never pay that much for anything, but I do admire their stuff. Sleep is bliss.
- SATURDAY -
We slept in, then met Erika & Ben for brunch. The brunch plan was to raid Cafe 28's hot and cold salad buffet, then take our food down to Madison Square Park for some outdoor dining. The park was beautiful - and may I just say that Cafe 28's Pesto/Parmesan Shell Pasta is just to DIE for - wow!
We didn't have too much time to frolic with siteseeing, as the wedding was at 5pm, and we had to be there early.
However, we opted to stroll through the south side of Central Park for a bit. Ben is a wonderful tour guide. He was amazing at navigating the subway lines and the park. We wandered into the park, went around the Heckscher Playground, the Friedsman Carousel, walked down the Mall, looked out over Bethesda Terrace, saw The Lake bridge, rounded Cherry Hill to Strawberry Fields, and then hopped the 72nd street Subway back down to the hotel. We changed/showered/got pretty, and hopped a cab to Penthouse 15 for the rooftop Wedding of our dear friends Lauren & Torrey. Much drinking, dancing, and even some night-time relaxing on the rooftop overlooking the city. I must say spending time on the roof at night, was perhaps one of my favorite moments this trip. It was nice to rise-above the noisy, hectic, crazy, insane, overwhelming chaos that IS Manhattan, and just take a moment to see it from up high, in a quiet and peace. We reconnected with several friends from our past at the wedding, including Erin & Mandy. Kymry and Kenyon were also there, and we visited with Lauren's and Torrey's parents again. The live band was particularly exciting - they did a LOT of James Brown hits. We finally went back to our hotel room, happy and tired, via bicyclist carriage. I don't know what you call those things. FUN is a word to use!
- SUNDAY -
Sunday was a day of "winging it" if you will. You would be proud of me. Normally, I'm a type A, planner, and minor control freak. Sunday all of this was put to the test AND it was ridiculously HOT outside on Sunday (thanks to Hurricane Ike). Nevermind the fact that the previous weather forecast said high of 75, it was nearly 90!!! Humid and stifling too. Imagine in Georgia it is hot, but you are shaded by trees and there is grass. In Manhattan, it's the Concrete Jungle, and Concrete seems to radiate HEAT. blah. I was definitely sweaty all day.
We started out at Cafe 28 for breakfast with the intent to eat quickly, and then go site-seeing. Suddenly, we saw Kymry and Kenyon enter the Cafe. We ended up eating our breakfasts together, and then changing our plans. The boys wanted to go to B&H Photo Store (owned by Hasidic Jews, closed every Saturday-that includes their website-I'm not kidding- and only open on this Sunday from 11-2, before the start of a WEEK LONG Jewish holiday - for which the store would close again). So, off they went!
Kymry and I decided we wanted to shop. We headed uptown on 5th to several places. I bought 2 sweaters in white and orange (the kind where your sleeves are long and normal, but the sweater hangs down long, and you can tie it across your waist, around the back, around your neck like a scarf, etc. they were very versatile). I also purchased a denim vest thingie - I like to say it looks like the feminine version of a men's tuxedo vest, and you can wear it alone or over a white shirt. We looked all over Forever 21 and Strawberry, but I didn't find anything I wanted (or that fit) in those stores. I need to go on a DIET badly! ha! I passed another bank ATM bay, so I tried again to withdraw cash, no luck. So I called the bank. they said "well you didn't tell us you'd be travelling" and I replied "I shouldn't HAVE to tell you, the fact that I know my own pin number should be a clue that it is me." and long story short they had put a temporary security block on my account because I had used my Debit Card to buy a subway pass at an MTA terminal, and supposedly that triggers all sorts of alarm bells. Well anyway, they reactivated me, and that was that. I was able to finally get some cash.
The boys found us again, and then we opted to walk around looking for more stores and things. Matthew made it about 20 more mins, and then he said "enough of this heat" and went back to the hotel to cool off and rest (and watch football). He was happy to do that. I kept going. Kymry was intent on hitting a Perfume store Bond No. 9 on Bond Street near Soho (I think), and off we went. She found her scent "The Hamptons" and I fell in love with "Lexington Avenue" - which was of course the newest fragrance and of course they only sold it in the larger bottle sizes (as opposed to the smaller $40 purse sized vial). And of course, being on vacation, knowing this was one of a kind, I splurged. I needed perfume anyway, so I do not regret it, but it was definitely the more extravagant purchase of the trip.
We lunched at Soho Park - delicious Belgian hand-cut fries with your choice of dipping sauces. I tried the Basil Mayo and the Roasted Red Pepper Aioli, ordered a Grilled Kosher Dog (with no kraut, I don't do that), and a HUGE bottle of Smart Water to drink (it was so damn hot out, I needed electrolytes!) Mmm! This place is quick, awesome, and tasty! KY and Kenyon said the burgers were divine also! This place TOTALLY trumps Maui Tacos FYI. Then off to shop some more. Kymry was looking for the holy-grail of "I love NY" t-shirts to buy for her friends in Norway. Apparently, she wanted a purple one, but darned if anybody had any. At the end of my trip I DID see one purple one at the gift shop on top the Empire State Building, but it was too late to get it then. Thankfully, KY did find some shirts in Chinatown later that night. We didn't buy anything but stopped to smile and enjoy the fabulously overpriced but decadent Dean & Deluca Store. Truffle oil? have you ever heard of such a thing? or Black Squid Ink Fettucini noodles? WTF? I was just in LOVE with this store. Too bad I'm not a millionaire and could shop here for groceries every day. Anyway, it was definitely worth looking at. They should have free samples - wow. The cheese selection was just unreal!!! Move over Sur La Table and Whole Foods. There's a new level of gourmet in town.
We hit a few more shops, including a 3-story monstrosity that I can't remember the name of, but that looked like the Oriental Trading Company catalog vomited inside. WOW! And then finally, all the walking, the heat, the shopping, the noise, it all caught up to me. So my friends were gracious enough to let me sit down in a Starbucks (air-conditioned thank goodness) to catch my breath and cool off. After visiting the restroom (there was literally a 30 min. line to the only bathroom), we went on our merry way. We stopped at Sabon for a moment (they were handing out free soap samples and let us wash our hands with this amazing scrub). I tried the Patchouli Lavendar Vanilla one, and wow, it was heavenly!
Then were in CHAOTIC Chinatown next. Good Lord Almighty, that was an experience. Better keep your purse zipped and your items close to you. All around were Chinese saying "Handbag? handbag? handbag? or T-shirt, you buy?" and it was just NOISE. I did buy a Harley Davidson belt buckle for my dog-sitter, and then the largest box of perfume I'd ever seen for Ralph Lauren Romance for less than half of the retail price. The box was still wrapped in plastic, so I doubt it was tampered with. Wow they do barter there! I did some on accident. A man was trying to sell me a handbag for $40 and I said "no thank you" and he kept talking, so I walked away, and as I'm walking he shouts "ok how about $20?" and then "$5?" but I had no need for another handbag.
Next - we were supposed to meet up with Mandy, Erika, Kendra, Ben, and Matt. The original plan was for everyone (except Mandy who was meeting us at the subway station) to meet at the hotel at 5:30pm, then take the train down to Canal Street (I think the Lafayette one, but not sure), and then walk to dinner, because our Dinner was supposed to be at 6pm. Matt had an iPhone with maps and GPS, and I had already texted him the restaurant's address, etc. I assumed it wouldn't be an issue. Wrong.
Kendra called Erika, and was going to be very late. So at 6pm (not 5:30), Erika, Ben, and Matt left the hotel and took the subway down. Mandy was mostly on time though, so I was happy to see her. Poor Erin and her boyfriend were already at the restaurant at 6pm, so they stood in line to wait for our table, but the restaurant is so tiny, that unless you are SEATED and eating, you pretty much have to stand outside. And remember it was HOT!
We finally (all but Kendra), made it to the restaurant Joe's Shanghai on Pell Street, near Mott Ave. 6:30pm, but because they won't seat you until everyone is there, we weren't seated until around 6:45-7pm. I was trying not to get upset, but I was FUMING. I was so hot, tired, hungry, sweaty, I had to pee, people were LATE and not doing what they agreed upon. I was just getting really irritated. I barged my way into the restaurant anyway and found the one-room bathroom, so I could at least cool off for a moment and pee. I guess it's typical with such a large group of people (some notorious for their chronic lateness - which in hindsight we should have accounted for), to meet in NYC all in one place. I suppose it shouldn't be such a problem for me. I just had a really LONG day that day. I was super cranky. Matt is such a gem for calming me down though. He always knows what to do. Bless him! Kendra had to drive, but luckily she did make it after the first dumplings arrived, and SURPRISE our friend Choice showed up too! I had no idea he was coming. yay! We crowded around a round table, and dined like kings.
The food WAS good! We ate family style and it was all about $20 per person (including tip and beer), so that was really nice! We had the crabmeat dumplings, the garlic eggplant, the spicy blackbean curd squid plate, tofu, some kind of chinese pizza thing (I let the vegetarians have that one, I was enjoying the other stuff first) the veggie fried rice (wow!), something called "vegetarian duck" (which was actually 1/2 of a DUCK and then vegetables. LOL), spring rolls, and Tsingtao beer! Yummy! this is one of those times I would actually drink the beer, because it's COLD, it's alcohol, and they didn't have wine. LOL.
Then it was back through Chinatown to get to the subway. Along the way, KY finally found her NYC t-shirts she wanted (just not the purple one, darn it), and then I bought 3 Dolce & Gabbana (?) sunglasses (obvious knock-offs but who cares, I will never buy the real thing anyway - and good gifts for friends). Then on to the subway.
We all had to go back to the hotel to get Erika & Ben's luggage and KY & Kenyon's luggage. KY & Kenyon were staying at Mandy's house in Brooklyn that night, and Erika & Ben were crashing at Kendra's place (somewhere near prospect park? not sure). Kendra drove some of them back, but as there were so many of us, we had to split up. So here goes the madness of coordinating that many people again. The plan was to all end up at a local Brooklyn pub called Daddy's. I did get to change clothes finally at the hotel, while Erika and Ben packed, and then we re-split (the boys Ben, Choice, and Matt - took the subway to Brooklyn), and then Erika, Kenyon, myself, and Kendra rode in Kendra's car. Somehow they started driving to Brooklyn but without knowing Mandy's address. Hold on - WHY would you blindly drive someplace if you don't know where you are going? and in New York for heaven's sake too? but after 3-4 cell phone calls to Mandy they figured it out. Maybe I'm just one of those prepared and think-ahead people, but not everyone is? I don't know. Where was Matt when I needed calming down again?
In the meantime, I sat back in the back-seat and enjoyed the Latino music station that Kendra was listening to. It was nice. Not too "la cooky-ra-cha" for my taste, and not too clubby - it was perfect! I couldn't understand a word they were singing, but so what? It was nice.
We finally made it around 9:30pm. Boy was I tired and hot again, but it was less stressful because the night-air was cooler, and there was a nice Malbec at the pub. yay! Matt said the boys second-guessed the subway and they ended up getting off 10 blocks away from where they meant to go, but they made it also - arriving about 10 mins before I did. YAY we all made it! And Mad Men was on TV too! YAY!
It was a mellow, slow to awaken, type of pub. Very cool old wood for the bar and floors and tables, great drink selection, and relaxing ambiance. Matt said Brooklyn reminded him a lot of the Grant Park area in Atlanta, just bigger.
We hung out until nearly 12midnight, and then I was about done for. So tired, feet sore, etc.
Matt knew the way, so we bid our adieu's and walked to the nearest subway and hopped on back to the hotel.
Matt was craving pizza, and since he had to pee, I told him (while on 28th and Madison) we should split up and I'd get the pizza so he could go to the hotel. I was all proud of myself and walking quickly down the dark street towards the Cafe 28, that I totally didnt' see someone's dog tied up to a lamp post near the mountain of garbage bags on the street. The dog barked at me and scared the living daylights out of me. I let out a terrific scream (the same one I use when I see a cockroach in my house - the one Matt says sounds like I am being murdered), and then promptly started laughing once I realized that it was just a dog and he couldn't reach me anyway. It was one of those really crazy dark-night-time moments where you almost question your sanity.
Unbelievably Cafe 28 (which has every other food item on the planet) didn't have any pizza at all, and they couldn't tell me where to get any. So I got us some chips and another tuna sandwich to share (healthier than pizza I suppose). We dined quickly, then fell asleep.
- MONDAY -
Monday was our last day in Manhattan. We had to check out before 11:30am, but the hotel will hold onto your bags for you (for a small fee - sure they will). And we had a few hours to kill before our plane (and cab ride, remember I promised we could take a cab this time). LOL!
We ate our breakfast/brunch (from Cafe 28 - you guessed it) at Madison Square Park again, and then traversed up to the Empire State Building for a look. As we werewalking across 5th avenue, just one block south of the ESB, I totally tripped and fell down on the curb. It was actually quite funny, because our to-go box of Salmon Caeser Wrap and whatever Matt had been eating, totally broke my fall, and I did not even have a bruise to go with it. The cute part was that about 5 gentlemen (plus Matt) ran to my side and asked if I was okay and helped me up. I just started to laugh hysterically. I think I was more embarrassed than tickled pink, but it was funny all around. Thank goodness that was the ONLY place I tripped and not in the subway (which I think I have a secret fear of falling in - I keep dreaming about it). So, we made it to the Empire State building each in one piece, carrying some squashed sandwich wraps. yay!
The line was supposedly only 45 mins long, so we did it. $19/person to get to the 86th floor observatory. It was about 45 mins to floor 80, but then the line for the elevator was ANOTHER 45 mins, so the staff gave us the option to hike up 5 or 6 flights of stairs to make it to floor 86 if we were in a rush. We WERE in a rush, so we took the stairs. whew! It was a bright, sunny, clear day, and the view was SPECTACULAR! Matt took some photos (I can't wait to see them), and then we had to get back down to the street, to get to the hotel, to catch a cab, to get to the airport. Of course, you can't escape from the 80th floor unless you go THROUGH the Gift Shop. Stinking b*stards! I really hate blatant marketing like that. Isn't there a more subtle and nice way to sell NYC memorabilia? blah! anyway, we escaped without buying anything, and made it to the hotel by about 1:15pm. grabbed our luggage, hailed a cab (I'm terrible at this, I tend to catch them better if they are at a stop light, then I just walk up to them). Anyway, we got a cab and high-tailed it to the airport. We tried to check-in at the curb. This very thickly accented Spanish dude is our Airtran man, and he actually ASKS for a tip. I mean he blatantly ASKS. What a jerk. We gave him $2 - grudgingly. I like to tip for GOOD service on my own when I decide I want to, not because some bungholio asks me for money . Blah!
Of course, of course, of course our terminal has NO BAR - only 3 newstands and 1 Donut shop, so there's no way to get a pre-flight drink, as a toast to the last remnants of our vacation.
so we have diet coke and water. LaGuardia has sealed its fate with me. I'm never going there again if I can help it. Worst airport EVER! I'll take Newark next time. At least the Subway GOES there. ha!
On the upside, our flight was on-time (until we hit the line on the tarmac for take-off), and we got our luggage fairly quickly in ATL, and Erika gave us a ride home (since she left her charger in my room). YAY! Thanks Erika!
We got home, retrieved the Dog from the neighbor's house (after giving said neighbor his belt buckle from Chinatown), and sat down to have a celebratory glass of wine with Erika.
Matt ordered Pizza (finally some pizza!), and we relaxed on our own couch in our HUGE living room (huge by NYC standards), and watched the Cowboy's lick the Eagles. YAY!
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Places I want to visit next time I go to "The Big Apple":
Recommended by Anthony Bourdain:
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Hint- I hear it's cheaper to stay in Manhattan if you look for places to rent on Craigs List. I didn't know we could do that, but in hindsight it would have saved us some money.
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MATT posted his NYC photos from Zazen Photo.
More photos from the NYC wedding. Damn I look a bit drunk.
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